Fuchsia Cultivation

Even the hardiest fuchsias are liable to be killed to ground level in very cold winters, but they usually shoot up again strongly from the roots in spring. Since the flowers of fuchsias are highly attractive and are produced more or less continuously all summer and well on into the autumn, until stopped by frost, they must be considered valuable garden plants despite this risk of winter damage.

To reduce losses to a minimum the following precautions should be observed. Choice of varieties should be restricted to those proved to be suitable for growing out of doors. Young plants should be obtained in containers in mid or late spring and planted in saucer-like hollows, the lowest point about 2 in. below soil level. These hollows will serve to hold water when the plants are watered in summer, which they should be whenever the soil is dry, and then in autumn they can be filled in with soil, peat and sand and a little more mounded on top to protect the basal buds in winter. In February or March all dead, weak or unwanted growth should be cut off 1 in. or so above soil level. Further pruning can be done when the new shoots are 4 in. or more long and it can be seen where the best growth is.

Fuchsia

Recommended varieties are Alice Hoffman, rose and white, 18 in. ; Chillerton Beauty, pink and violet, 2 ft.; Corallina, scarlet and purple, wide-spreading habit, 18 in. ; Howlett’s Hardy, scarlet and violet, 3 ft.; Lady Thumb, carmine and white, 1 ft.; Lena, pink and purple, 2 ft.; magellanica gracilis, scarlet and violet, 3 ft.; magellanica versicolor, scarlet and violet, leaves grey green, pink and white, 3 ft. ; Margaret, scarlet and violet purple, 3 ft.; Margaret Brown, carmine and rose, 2 ft. ; Mme Comelissen, scarlet and white, 2 ft.; Mrs Popple, scarlet and violet purple, 3 ft.; Mrs W. P. Wood, pale pink, 3 ft.; riccartonii, scarlet and purple, 4 to 6 ft.; Tennessee Waltz, rose and mauve, 21 ft., and Tom Thumb, scarlet and mauve, 1 ft.

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