Planting Procedure For Aquatic Plants
If. when you get your plants, you are unable to plant them immediately, they can be kept fresh for several days by putting them in the fridge – not the deepfreeze. Alternatively, remove the wrappings and. Having rinsed them under a running tap to get rid of any fragments of duckweed, insect life or mud that might harbour small leeches, drop them in a bucket the or bath of water- or even in the pool itself. Theof marginals, the and of deep marginals and lilies, and every part of SOP must be submerged.
Do the planting out of the sun if possible. Generally me plant as you would any perennials, with the crown above soil level, and do not be afraid to ram the soil j in very firmly indeed to compensate for the loosening up effect of immersion. Top off eachwith an led inch of washed gravel or pebbles, and put each one into the pool as soon as it is done, immersing it gradually to avoid soil disturbance. Bunched oxygenators without roots are planted in use bunches, just as they are, the pushed a couple ort of inches into a hole made in the soil with a trowel hat handle and then firmed with the fingers. If, when immersed, the bunches refuse to stay put, and float up, put them back on the soil horizontally and place a no stone on the middle of the bunch large enough to keep it down. They will just as readily that way. Do not keep SOP out of water a moment longer than necessary.
Water lilies should have all the oldremoved ant and the fleshy roots cut right back – if the grower has not done it already. Plant normally, unless the the variety has a long tuberous . In this case plant the tuber nearly level, about 30 degrees to the horizontal, with the sprouting end just clear of the soil. A large container, when planted, weighs 25 lb. Or more, awkward to hold with one hand at arm’s length. The diagram illustrates more effectively than words how to containers well away from the pool sides without falling in yourself. It takes two people: if there is no one handy cover the waiting containers with wet cloth or wet newspaper, and see that it stays wet until help arrives.
Marginal containers go on the marginal shelf: SOP containers anywhere they will be submerged -usually scattered around the floor. Deep marginal and water-lily containers go on the floor, provided that this leaves not more than 8 in. of water over the soil level. Otherwise they must be supported with a brick or two to bring the container top within 6 to 8 in. of the surface. Once their newgrowth reaches the surface, they can be dropped to the floor. Or whatever level is appropriate to the variety.
If you do not use containers, and have to plant into a soil layer on the bottom of an empty pool, then you will have to plant pretty briskly, because you cannot run water in until plants are all in place, except for the marginals. When the hose is turned on it is best to run it into a bucket or basin to avoid serious disturbance of the soil. Planting of the marginal trough can proceed while the water is filling the lower part of the pool. If any plants loosen and float up they must be pushed back and stones placed over their roots.
Once planting is completed the water will almost certainly become green – if it wasn’t already – because the conditions are favourable to uni-cellular algae. It will stay like that until the plants really get going: in the meantime there is nothing you can usefully do about it. I see no virtue in chemical treatments at this stage in the proceedings. Covering the pool with planks and sacks will certainly cut light off totally from the algae, but the plants you have put in would also die from lack of light so I do not see much future in that. The best advice I can offer at this point is to occupy yourself with other matters, or go onfor a couple of weeks, rather than look at the pool every few hours to see how it is getting on. A watched pool never clears, or at least seems to take an interminable time to do so. It may in fact take a couple of weeks or a couple of months, depending on such variable factors as the chemical richness of the water and the planting soil and on the hours of sunlight. But clear it will, and probably very suddenly. One day pea soup, next day clear, is the way it usually happens.
If it is still green when the time comes to introduce fish, two or three weeks after planting, you can, if you have the option, postpone the fish to give the SOP more time to develop. If the fish have been ordered and arrive as arranged, do not worry on their account. They have no objection to green water: indeed they seem to thrive on it.
No mention has been made of waterside and marsh plants since they are not planted within the pool and have no influence on pool balance.