Garibaldi. The best bright red for early forcing, forming a very compact spike.
Jan Bos. An early-flowering variety bearing a bloom of deep crimson.
La Victoire. Best described as deep carmine-rose, the bloom being of large exhibition proportions.
Tubergen’s Scarlet. The dainty small-flowering spikes are early and of almost a vermilion colour.
Lady Derby. An older variety and perhaps the best for individual. It is mid-season flowering, producing a bloom of bright shell pink.
Marconi. A very late-flowering variety making a large bloom of a bright rose colour.
Pink Pearl. Produces a most attractive bloom of a deep rosy pink colour and is both early and stands quite hard forcing.
Grand Maitre. A most attractive variety on account of its deeply colouredand rich lavender-blue . Medium late.
King of the Blues. Very late and of compact habit, the bloom being of darkest blue.
Ostara. A recent introduction, bearing a large, compact spike of pale forget-me-not blue.
.Queen of the Blues. A lovely old variety of a pale shade of azure blue and is an excellent forcer.
King of the Violets. The colour is attractive rich violet-mauve, the bloom very large.
Lord Balfour. Produces a bloom with very large bells, the colour being, tinged violet.
Arentine Arendsen. Early, forces well and bears a large spike of pure white.
L’Innocence. Very early – a very easy and robust grower and produces a refined bloom of purest white.
Queen of the Whites. Later flowering than most whites and ideal for indoor or outside cultivation.
Go of Haarlem. The best exhibition yellow, the colour being primrose yellow, but like all of this colour will not tolerate any heavy forcing.
Prins Hendrik. Produces a very strongly perfumed broad spike of a deep shade of yellow.
Yellow Hammer. A variety known to our gardens during the last century but still the best garden yellow. The colour is deep cream, the spike being compact and very early.
Dr. Lieber. A new variety of great merit, producing a huge spike of pale porcelain blue, flushed violet and is good for forcing.
These may be obtained in pink, blue and white (they look lovely in mixed bowls of six spikes), but are not named.
Rosalie. This is the earliest of all for indoor flowering. Though not a true Roman, it appears to have much Roman blood for it is similar in habit and appearance. It makes only a small bulb of 13 cm. Which should be planted in early September. It may be brought into bloom by mid-December.
Hyacinthus amethystinum. This is a most charming miniature variety, dainty and very cheap to buy, the small bulbs costing no more than a half-crown per dozen. Ideal for planting in the rockery, inin a cold , or frame and in short grass. The miniature spikes are of a rich amethyst blue shade and freely produced, throughout early summer.
Pests And Diseases Of The Hyacinth
It sometimes happens that in a bulb which has not been correctly dried and is received in a soft condition, it may damp off or rot away due to disease spores in the soil finding easy access to a bulb which is not perfectly healthy. Occasionalwith a dilute Cheshunt Compound, especially immediately after planting should prevent any trouble.
grown outdoors or under cool conditions are free from pest attacks and it is only under forcing conditions that aphides (green and black fly) may become troublesome. They may cause stunting and distortion of the flower spikes and where hyacinths are being grown on a large scale, fumigation with nicotine shreds during late November as soon as the flower spike comes into view should prevent the insects causing any damage. Remember that nicotine is to humans, but not to plant life.